A new face at Paco Rabanne: Julien Dossena launched his first collection for Paco Rabanne (previously he worked for Balenciaga under Nicolas Ghesquière) and is now more likely to become known soon.
With a mixture of molded plastic, sheer and simple structures (at least for the coats part), the designer shows that he is able to stay true to the brand, but also that he has the ability to make retro plastic look less retro but modern and sporty.
He accomplished it by cutting all dresses super-short, by combining masculine and feminine aspects aswell as by using a strict color palette of neutral blacks, whites, grays, bordeaux, and blues.
With a clear understanding of his arts, Dossena knows how to give his looks a special identity. The tanktops embroidered with rebellious zippers represent a state of wildness and strudiness and are a contrast to the collection's pattern.
With classic patterns, the coats come in black and gray and have no special embellishments – simple, straight, slightly unisex. The coats indicate a difference in comparison to the other looks of this Spring 2014 collection, since the other looks represent youth and freshness.
But these coats are special in a macrocosmic point of view. When we look at the Spring '14 trends, we see lots of embroidery and complex structures. Dossena, in comparison, wanted to swim against the stream and designed simple, timeless pieces which still can be combined to lots of accessories.
And exactly this way of thinking made him launch a fantastic, trend-setting SS14 collection for Paco Rabanne at Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2013.
I hope that he goes big in Fashion business! Because he deserves it.